Author Topic: Things to keep an eye on  (Read 1130 times)

September 13, 2015, 06:15:50 PM
Read 1130 times

dreamerza

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So I'm sure there are many like me, have the nice monitoring app ( Torque Pro in my case ) and can view certain parameters, mostly generic. However being a layman I actually don't know what these values mean, nor what their acceptable range should even be.

Perhaps some of the tuners could advise on what the most important sensors to keep an eye on are when monitoring or going through logs, and what their normal values should be.
« Last Edit: September 13, 2015, 06:28:14 PM by dreamerza »
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September 13, 2015, 10:32:29 PM
Reply #1

berndp

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That would be a great help, yes.
Subaru Forester 2005 2.5 Xsel
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September 14, 2015, 02:29:25 PM
Reply #2

0012

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Yes please guys, what to look for?

October 07, 2015, 07:49:37 PM
Reply #3

dreamerza

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SG9 XT 
LSS Sump Guard
LSS Diff Guard
WRX 4 Pots
3"Turbo Back from A.C.E Performance
PSPerformance Tuned
Romic Motors Maintained
Willing to get muddy!

October 07, 2015, 10:22:41 PM
Reply #4

berndp

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Seems nobody else knows either, or it's top secret JZ (sorry meant JB (007)) stuff. ;)
Subaru Forester 2005 2.5 Xsel
Always looking for a tar free "road"
Brackenfell, W'Cape

October 07, 2015, 10:42:37 PM
Reply #5

Stev0

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You can monitor :

Knock Correction (positive is good)
Ignition Timing (how much your car is advancing or retarding based on driving conditions)
Exhaust Gas Temp (too hot is very bad)
Oil pressure (my car runs at about 6.8bar)
Oil Temp (too high - bad)
Gearbox Oil Temp (Auto) (too high - bad)
A/F's (running rich or lean . 10= Rich 20 = lean)

You will need a Jax Dash or a Subaru specific tool to monitor things like IAM

On torque I like to run:

A/F
Coolant Temp
Boost
Timing
Speed
Rpm

ex Prodrive Xt, X, XT, WRX STI, Outback 3.0R

October 13, 2015, 07:43:00 AM
Reply #6

Jacques

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The most important parameters for me is:

1. IAM
2. Fine Learning Knock Correction
3. A/F Learning #1 values

These are basically everything that the Learning View App shows.

IAM will be 1 on the 32bit cars and 16 on the 16bit cars.  If it is less than that, knock has been detected over a couple of load ranges.  This could be caused by bad fuel.

Fine Learning Knock Correction (FLKC) will show you ranges where knock has been detected and timing has been pulled (when negative value).  When FLKC is positive, timing has been added which in turns mean IAM was not 1 to start with. FLKC can only be positive when IAM is not 1.  FLKC values are stored values and are continuously adjusted by the ECU as knock is/not detected.  When you reset the ECU, IAM is set to 0.5 and all FLKC is cleared.  IAM will return to 1 the first time you accelerate again and no knock is detected. FLKC values will also then be learned over again.

A/F learning values tell you how good your MAF sensor scaling is and if there are any leaks in your intake path.  There are four ranges for idle up to open loop operation (when the A/F sensor is not used).  The first 3 ranges should be within 5%.  The last range should be within 1% because this value is also used in open loop operation when the ECU is only relying on how good your MAF scaling is and ignores the A/F sensor input.  The ECU can correct these ranges up to 15%, more than that and your on your own.  A/F range values are also cleared when you reset the ECU and then learned again.
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October 13, 2015, 09:51:43 PM
Reply #7

westcoaster

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Shot, Jacques, nice & simple for noobs like me!
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November 24, 2015, 01:26:34 PM
Reply #8

JoeDijeaux

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I remapped my car, so some things are out of range compared to stock. I have Torque Pro and I keep an eye on

  • Boost. Max for me is 1.1 Bar, tapering off to 0.8 at 6000+
  • Coolant Temp. It's safe up to about 102, but anything over 97 means something isn't working as well as it should.
  • AFR Measured. When your planting your foot, it should be around 11 because that's as low as the stock "wide-band" goes. In reality it should never go above 10.8
  • AFR Commanded. Should never be above 10.9 or so. You'll see an initial value over 11 when the car transitions to open loop, but it should stay under 11. If it doesn't, it means your throttle position sensor is bad.
  • For shits, I also keep an eye on my GPS speed. The speedo is out by about 9 or 10 percent.

But honestly the only thing you should really be worried about while driving is the coolant temp and whether or not the car feels "lazy" (indicating that your timing is being retarded).