Author Topic: How to change your Shocks  (Read 645 times)

December 04, 2015, 12:58:47 AM
Read 645 times

Stev0

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What you will need.

2 x 19 Spanners or sockets.
1 x 14 Spanner or socket
1 x 12 Spanner or socket
1 x Allen key or Allen attachment for Sway bar
2 x Jacks
2 x Axle stands
1 x Bad ass large screw driver (does not matter if flat or phillips)
1 x Old number plate


Now what you need to realise is that if things go wrong, you could pop your cv joint out of the inner attachment at the engine. If things go really bad, you will more than likely pop the boot off and spill grease everywhere. Dont worry, you can pop it back on, after you stuff it with grease and cable tie it. This will get you to a speedy where they can properly secure the boot.

Location of nuts :

3 x 12 nuts at the top of the strut
2 x 19 nuts on the shock body
2 x 12 nuts holding the brake lines and wires
Oh and 5 x 19' wheel nuts.




Take out your wheel spanner and loosen the wheel nuts so you can jack up the car and remove the wheel.
Jack up the car, remove the nuts and take off the wheel. Place Axle stands under car
Break the torque on the top 3 nuts holding the strut to the body
Loosen and remove the 2 x 12 nuts holding the brake lines
Remove the bolt on the anti-sway bar with a 14 spanner and allen key (allen sits in the thread and keeps the thread from turning)
Disconnect Sway bar
Break the torque on the 2 x 19 nuts holding the shock to the hub. Depending on when this was last done, you might struggle. Spray with Q20 and let it sit for a few minutes.
Remove the camber bolt and place the big screw driver through the hole, securing it so it does not move around too much.
Remove the bottom bolt completely.
Place number plate between bottom of strut and Cv boot (In case strut drop onto the boot and damaging it (Cv boot is around R400 from the dealers)
Place a stand underneath the hub and make sure that its secure and does not tilt towards you (Cv will pop out)
Remove screw driver
Bottom part of strut is now lose and only attached by the 3 x 12 nuts on the tower.
Remove those nuts and carefully slide down and out of the vehicle.



Put new shock back by sliding it and the aligning the top three holes. If you cant line them all up, hand screw one of the nuts to the strut is at least hanging there. This should free up your hands.
Line up the hub and the bottom two holes (camber bolt goes in the top) Screw them in with the hand.
You should now be able to get the two nuts on at the top, tightening all 3.
Tighten the 2 x brake line bolts
Reattach the Anti sway-bar (if it does not align, use a jack and jack up the hub until you can get the holes lined up. tighten.
Tighten the bottom nut and tighten the top camber bolt.
All your bottom bolts and nuts should be tight.
Put wheel back on
Tighten nuts
Remove all jacks
Tighten top 3 nuts holding the strut.



Give yourself about 30-45 minutes per wheel if you are new at it.
I've changed struts without disconnecting the sway-bar, but almost always nearly had the cv pop out or had the strut nearly drop through the numberplate. I would strongly suggest you disconnect the sway-bar.

Have beers.  :o




Jeep Commander CRD - GDE Hot Tune
ex Prodrive Xt, X, XT, WRX STI, Outback 3.0R