Author Topic: Higher capacity fans  (Read 6188 times)

January 11, 2016, 08:52:57 AM
Read 6188 times

whoning

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Hi Guys

Coming back from holiday we decided to keep clear of the high ways and decided to drive through Boosmansbos reserve from Riversdal to Barrydale, can't remember the name of the pass now, something like Gysmanshoek pass. Very nice little road, more a jeep track at the top than a gravel road. Anyway, the last little climb to the top of the pass was approached quite slowly, had the normal 17" 55 wheels on and not my 16" 65 G012 as I wasn't expecting any gravel roads the holiday, and I just saw the coolant temp climb, made it to the top and stopped at 104C, first time I ever saw the needle climb. It was about 35C and it cooled down quite rapidly again.

Since I plan to do quite a bit more off road holidays this year I would like to increase the cooling capacity of the car. Since I have a auto the mishimoto route is a bit more complicated, and with the rand going to hell I am not too keen on that option, so I was wondering if there are any higher capacity fans for Subaru out there.

Another though would be to take a core out of the pile of old radiators outside of Pyro's shop and pay someone to make me a double core radiator, but I expect that to become quite expensive too and then a mishi is a better option.


January 11, 2016, 10:57:54 AM
Reply #1

JoeDijeaux

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A water misting kit for your radiator might help. You can make one yourself for about R100. You can even run it off your window washer if you feel like Mcguyvering it. Though you need a misting nozzle as opposed to a streamer.

January 11, 2016, 10:59:54 AM
Reply #2

whoning

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Not a bad idea that... For a mechanical engineer I can be quite daft.... wonder if I woukd be able to macguyver it from the pump for the headlight spray nozzles... will give it some thought.

Sent from my GT-I9190 using Tapatalk
« Last Edit: January 11, 2016, 12:02:05 PM by whoning »

January 11, 2016, 12:03:10 PM
Reply #3

JoeDijeaux

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Not a bad idea that... For a mechanical engineer I can be quite daft.... wonder if I woukd be able to macguyver it from the pump for the headlight spray nozzles... will give it some thought.

Sent from my GT-I9190 using Tapatalk

Headlight spray nozzles are even better (I just assumed everyone's stuck in the past with SG9's like myself). It's a variation on a trick the Australians use in the outback where they counter-intuitively wrap the radiator in wet cloth. But I can't do that without wincing. I'll stick to mist.

January 11, 2016, 12:07:02 PM
Reply #4

whoning

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Also have a SG9... as far as I know the sprayers came with HIDs...

Sent from my GT-I9190 using Tapatalk


January 11, 2016, 01:17:55 PM
Reply #5

berndp

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Hi, I tried the bottle with just a pipe to the front of the radiator many years ago on a Golf.
That didn't do much.

a misting nozzle system might do it, but the little washer pumps can't deliver the pressure required. I tried that for a misting system for reptiles. You need a stronger pump, say from your POD coffee maker !  :)

W: that Gysmanshoek pass is beautiful, after rains even better. One does get a bit nervous though when there's a big Bell tip truck on your ass, like we had last year, going east.
Better check your coolant reservoir, at that elevated temperature, it could push out water from the radiator into the reservoir

Not a bad idea that... For a mechanical engineer I can be quite daft....
.
I think some things are just not technical enough for us  ;D

See this post, i also had heat problems recently.
http://foresterforum.co.za/index.php/topic,2828.0.html

I tried to re-enact the overheating by tackling some local passes: no overheating.

I don't think it's the head gaskets anymore. Checked compression : 1350 - 1375 kPa
I have now replaced the cap and the thermostat, and the car seems cooler.
Thinking of replacing the thermo again, but the colder one (78'C vs 82'C) (It's only about R250)

I'll also need to clean out the condenser fins, as the debris in there must be restricting the air flow.

Maybe an option would be to fit a switch to force the fans on to high speed, which you could control from inside, when tackling a high engine load situation.
Subaru Forester 2005 2.5 Xsel
Always looking for a tar free "road"
Brackenfell, W'Cape

January 11, 2016, 02:28:39 PM
Reply #6

Veneficus

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Ok if your system is working optimally

Problem is your system is already designed to take water and then heat it up (to cool the engine)
Yes the little bit of water you throw over the radiator will help
For the few minutes you dispense water over it and then it won't do that much

so you need something that will keep on working so either a bigger radiator with larger amount of airflow (like the mishimoto units)

So the nice radiator upgrade stated on other posts
Or a additional radiator fan could also help a bit but personally I would start with radiator first

So on current ones possibly replace radiator caps with new ones
Check that all the area's in radiator has enough coolant and bleed the system to make sure there is no bubbles somewhere
« Last Edit: January 11, 2016, 03:39:43 PM by Veneficus »
2007 2.5XT Manual (and boy did I have to search for manual one)

January 11, 2016, 09:34:34 PM
Reply #7

4wdrift

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At ASE they built a radiator for me since I was going for more power. It was too thick to get the normal fan back on so they fitted two electric fans side by side, works great, perhaps you could try the two fan route. I am also interested in fitting a extra fan or two to my intercooler, although this is more for the fun of it than needed.

January 11, 2016, 10:57:24 PM
Reply #8

berndp

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Our SG's (SG9 N/A) already have 2 fans.

Maybe another fan or 2 in front of the condenser might help? (BMW style).
Subaru Forester 2005 2.5 Xsel
Always looking for a tar free "road"
Brackenfell, W'Cape

January 12, 2016, 06:06:20 AM
Reply #9

Veneficus

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You can get a motorbike radiator fan that spins in the right direction
They are slightly smaller than the car fan but thinner too
2007 2.5XT Manual (and boy did I have to search for manual one)

January 12, 2016, 07:24:05 AM
Reply #10

Toffie

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You really need to know exactly how you are going to influence airflow over the radiator core before adding fans or other equipment to the standard setup. Especially if you are adding blow fans to the front of the radiator and keep the suck fans at the back. Principally taking into consideration that at the highest speed of the standard suck fans, the blow fans on the front should still be supplying air at closely the same rate. If they are slower than the standard fans they will become an obstacle to the airflow over the core instead of being an aid to the air flow. So you will end up with extra fans actually abetting to your car over heating instead of your intention to help with cooling.

« Last Edit: January 12, 2016, 07:31:43 AM by Toffie »

January 12, 2016, 07:30:53 AM
Reply #11

Toffie

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My suggestion will be to firstly look at coolant upgrades. Mostly at the waterless liquids for high performance engines. This should have a noticeable influence on dispersing heat faster.


January 12, 2016, 07:38:55 AM
Reply #12

Veneficus

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You really need to know exactly how you are going to influence airflow over the radiator core before adding fans or other equipment to the standard setup. Especially if you are adding blow fans to the front of the radiator and keep the suck fans at the back. Principally taking into consideration that at the highest speed of the standard suck fans, the blow fans on the front should still be supplying air at closely the same rate. If they are slower than the standard fans they will become an obstacle to the airflow over the core instead of being an aid to the air flow. So you will end up with extra fans actually abetting to your car over heating instead of your intention to help with cooling.
Not necessarily Toffie
Most fans used for vehicle radiator cooling is designed to allow air to flow past them
If they weren’t then the vehicle would always have to drive with the fan running because if it did not then no cooling would happen
Which is why they don’t look like a normal home cooling fan

So even if the fan is slower than the ones at the back it should still assist especially if it kicks in sooner 
And it should not impede airflow to any major extent even when not running

And they go further with that for the fans made to sit in front
« Last Edit: January 12, 2016, 07:41:31 AM by Veneficus »
2007 2.5XT Manual (and boy did I have to search for manual one)

January 12, 2016, 07:49:07 AM
Reply #13

Toffie

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I don't agree. If the front fans are supplying air slower than the back fans, your theory will only hold water if they stop and the back fans take over. If the front fans are still turning they will greatly increase their surface area while on and impede airflow over the core. Secondly, what will the use be to have front fans that supply air slower than the back fans if your end result was to have better cooling than the standard setup? And lastly just remember that rad fans are only effective up to about 80km/h. If your car is overheating, or getting hot, hill climbing at 110km/h, you will have to look at other options to help with the cooling.



January 12, 2016, 07:53:13 AM
Reply #14

Veneficus

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a stopped fan does not allow more air through than one that is running even if there is fast fans at the back
most of you normal fans do not stop dead and turn the blades flat the way a airplane does with it's prop to allow max airflow
they still turn they just aren't powered up
Under max airflow it will allow same amount of air through whether it is turning or not

that said I do agree as I stated above if the car is over heating when at speed then the issue is probably not the fans
« Last Edit: January 12, 2016, 07:55:57 AM by Veneficus »
2007 2.5XT Manual (and boy did I have to search for manual one)