Author Topic: How to replace a Subaru Forester XT (SG9) turbo  (Read 917 times)

September 19, 2016, 08:39:01 AM
Read 917 times

Garrsie

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Standard CMA Disclaimer: Do this at your own risk. Risk to yourself and your car.

This job is not overly complicated but does take a fair amount of time. Not having done it before and pretty much learning as I went, it took me a good 4 or so hours (excluding time to go buy tools I needed and getting new hose clamps, losing my temper and drinking tea etc.). The first time I did it was actually easier than the second time as one of the exhaust nuts stripped it's edges because I didn't use copper slip on them the first time I did this exercise.

Having done this a couple of times, I recon I could do it in an hour or two, ok maybe three.

The best tip I can give is; be patient and expect stuff to go wrong so that if it does, you keep your cool (not like I did. I now have a couple extra little dents in the fender that weren't there before this job).

Tools

Socket and spanners (I used 1/2, 3/8 and 1/4 inch sockets):
     10, 12, 13, 14, 17, 19mm
UJ (universal joints 3/8 and 1/4 inch)
Flat and star screw drivers, long and short
Breaker bar
Vice grips (needle nose and regular)
Jack and axle stands
2lt cool drink bottle
Q20/WD40

Helpful things
Lead light and torch (magnetic base and extendable torch is very useful)
Magnetic pick up tool (cause you are going to drop something)
Silicone self fusing tape (could probably get away with electrical tape)
Heat gun
Clean rags/plastic bags and elastic bands
Mechanics and/or latex gloves
Safety glasses
Coveralls (because you are going to get proper dirty)
Spares and necessities
New copper washers for banjo bolts
Oil (and new filter with sump plug crush washer if you're going to change the oil at the same time. Just makes sense to do it now)
Coolant
Spare hose clamps (t-bolts for IC to TB if you can)
Copper grease/slip (mine is exhaust safe to 1200c)
Must haves
Plasters and Superglue to address injuries
Cell phone to call ambulance
Punching bag on which to take out frustrations (better than kicking your paper mache fender)
« Last Edit: September 19, 2016, 10:16:15 AM by Garrsie »
2006 Forester XT, Wiseco pistons, 18"Koya lightweight wheels, Bridgestone re002, Custom 20g turbo, STi IC, 76mm exhaust, Walbro 255, Custom turbo inlet, intake spacers, Gizmo Boost Controller, TGV deletes. BC RA Coilies, Brembo big Calipers, PB RS Discs, Coolboost WMI, Intent Performance Tuned

September 19, 2016, 08:47:13 AM
Reply #1

Garrsie

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Step 0

Do this first! Spray the turbo to exhaust manifold nuts with penetrating spray so it can work whilst you do all the other stuff. Leave it over night if you can.

Step 1
Remove the intercooler
     Loosen and remove vapour return hoses from front of IC (intercooler)
     Loosen IC to TB (throttle body)hose clamps
     Loosen hose from BPV (bypass valve) to inlet (if you choose to remove the BPV from the IC, you will need a new gasket for it)
     Remove BPV actuator tube
     Loosen the mounting bolt on either side of the IC
     Pull the IC out by shifting it towards the off-side (for RHD vehicles) and pulling upwards and pushing towards the cabin simultaneously. You'll know what i mean when you do it.
     Block oft the TB intake with a clean rag or cover it with a plastic bag and secure it with the elastic band


« Last Edit: September 20, 2016, 07:00:53 AM by Garrsie »
2006 Forester XT, Wiseco pistons, 18"Koya lightweight wheels, Bridgestone re002, Custom 20g turbo, STi IC, 76mm exhaust, Walbro 255, Custom turbo inlet, intake spacers, Gizmo Boost Controller, TGV deletes. BC RA Coilies, Brembo big Calipers, PB RS Discs, Coolboost WMI, Intent Performance Tuned

September 19, 2016, 09:28:01 AM
Reply #2

Garrsie

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Step 2

Remove turbo heat shield
     Remove the 3 10mm bolts holding the heat shield on (mounting bracket will come away when removing the down pipe)
     Give it a coat of flame proof paint whilst it's off. Might as well!



Step 3
Remove IC mounting bracket
     Remove the two bolts next to the turbo's off-side (bolt closer to the turbo needs a spanner rather than a socket due to space restrictions)



Step 4
Pull inlet pipe forward
     Unclip air box and loosen clamp from air box to inlet pipe
     Remove top of air box, unclipping the MAF socket too
     Remove air box to inlet flexible pipe
     Remove power steering pump inlet (cover with clean rag). You might get away without doing this but i found it made life easier. If you do this, you most likely will need a new o-ring to seal the pump inlet (i made a paper gasket to do the job).



     Remove all the pipes attached to the inlet pipe (i.e. from BPV [difficut to get to], crank case, pcv valve etc.)
     Pull the inlet pipe towards the front of the car till it comes off the turbo inlet flange
« Last Edit: September 20, 2016, 07:03:01 AM by Garrsie »
2006 Forester XT, Wiseco pistons, 18"Koya lightweight wheels, Bridgestone re002, Custom 20g turbo, STi IC, 76mm exhaust, Walbro 255, Custom turbo inlet, intake spacers, Gizmo Boost Controller, TGV deletes. BC RA Coilies, Brembo big Calipers, PB RS Discs, Coolboost WMI, Intent Performance Tuned

September 19, 2016, 09:43:24 AM
Reply #3

Garrsie

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Step 5
Remove downpipe (this may be easier with the car up on axle stands. Use wheel chocks (read random bricks) if you have them and remember to yank on the hand brake and put the car in Park or in gear.
     Undo the 5 bolts on the back/cabin side of the turbo (the bottom nut is only really accessible from under the car)
     Undo the middle section flange of the exhaust
     Remove the mounting bolt on the side of the gearbox and drop the pipe out (likely getting clobbered in the face in the process)



Step 6

Work on the turbo it's self
     Remove rubber coolant line off the steel pipe that comes from the off-side (RHD) and over the top of the turbo (use a pipe clamp if you have one or stuff a big bolt in the end to stop coolant going all over the place)
     Remove the banjo bolt for the oil inlet on the top of the turbo (whilst it's off, check the banjo filter and clean it or remove it all together)
     Remove the boost control line from the turbo outlet and wastegate actuator
     Remove the 3 mounting nuts on the turbo to exhaust flange (I needed a breaker bar here. Be super ultra amazingly careful to not strip the nut edges or your day will be utterly ruined)
                 The two nuts (towards the back and drivers side) are easy to get to but the third is difficult. I used the 3/8 UJ here to get into the tight space




     Pull the turbo upwards, making sure that the metal oil return (under the turbo) comes loose (may need to squeeze the clamp on the hose but mine came out easily with a gentle tug)
     
      Remove the coolant return line under the turbo (I used vice grips to open the clamp) trying very hard to not get water down the oil return hose (another reason that changing the oil now isn't such a bad idea)

Congrats! Turbo is out!

Read this backwards to reinstall!
« Last Edit: September 20, 2016, 07:08:02 AM by Garrsie »
2006 Forester XT, Wiseco pistons, 18"Koya lightweight wheels, Bridgestone re002, Custom 20g turbo, STi IC, 76mm exhaust, Walbro 255, Custom turbo inlet, intake spacers, Gizmo Boost Controller, TGV deletes. BC RA Coilies, Brembo big Calipers, PB RS Discs, Coolboost WMI, Intent Performance Tuned

September 19, 2016, 10:03:15 AM
Reply #4

Garrsie

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More tip and hints;

Smear the turbo to exhaust nuts liberally with copper slip when reinstalling. You'll regret not doing it in the future.

Prime the turbo
Before reattaching the turbo oil inlet banjo and air inlet, prime the turbo as below;
     Use a syringe to fill the turbo with clean fresh oil and turn the compressor wheel with your finger. keep filling and turning until the oil level in the banjo hole doesn't drop at all. Reattach the inlet banjo. Once everything is back on and you're ready to start up, pull fuse no 11 from the in cabin fuse box (labelled IGN). Put foot flat flat flat on accelerator and crank the engine over for about 20-30 seconds. Wait a little while and repeat the crank. Check oil and coolant levels and top up if needs be.

Monitor
This step is to be used in conjunction with the burping step below.
Once you've put back the fuse and have started up for the first time, monitor the coolant temperature very closely (use Torque and a bluetooth dongle). Your car's temperature will rise rapidly whilst there are bubbles in the system and the fans can't cope with the extra heat.

Burping the cooling system
If you can, move the car to a slope with the nose pointing up hill. Open the top coolant bottle (not the radiator cap or white plastic expansion tank) and put in a funnel (here is where i used the cool drink bottle with the bottom cut off). Seal the funnel to the coolant tank as much as possible using the silicone tape and fill it with a little coolant (about 5cm above the coolant tank). Start the car up and watch the level closely as it'll likely drop as the bubbles come out, top it up as necessary. Let the car come up to temperature (don't rev the engine) and wait for the fans to kick in. I am not comfortable letting my car go above 98 degrees for fear of losing the head gaskets again. Be careful not to get hot coolant on you because the funnel will be bubbling and spitting as the air comes out of the system. Let the car go through two or three fan cycles but switch the car off to let it cool if the temp goes too high. Using Torque, I could see the temp hit 98 (switch off) and then start to cool down with the fans help, that's when I knew it was burped. Remove the funnel and take it for a drive, again monitoring the temps for sneaky bubbles in the system (temp will rise rapidly and your engine will become a puddle if you're not vigilant).
« Last Edit: September 20, 2016, 06:56:28 AM by Garrsie »
2006 Forester XT, Wiseco pistons, 18"Koya lightweight wheels, Bridgestone re002, Custom 20g turbo, STi IC, 76mm exhaust, Walbro 255, Custom turbo inlet, intake spacers, Gizmo Boost Controller, TGV deletes. BC RA Coilies, Brembo big Calipers, PB RS Discs, Coolboost WMI, Intent Performance Tuned

September 19, 2016, 10:15:52 AM
Reply #5

Garrsie

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Side notes

The power steering pump will make a hell of a racket when you start up again but it should quiet down quite quickly. If not, with the engine running, turn the wheel lock to lock a few times and it should help. If not, check the inlet pipe for cracks that may have appeared when removing it (ask me how i know)

A heat gun is useful for a hose that won't come off a metal pipe. Heat it gently to soften and presto.

DO NOT drop anything down the exhaust up pipe, particularly copper washers cause you can't get them out with a magnet. You'll have to remove your exhaust manifold to get it out. Nearly happened to me but i got lucky.

You will likely have loads of smoke coming out your bonnet scoop for quite a while from the oils and grease burning off the exhaust and turbo. The copper grease also smokes for a long time. Just keep checking your oil and coolant levels regularly, repeatedly, often, daily, dogmatically (you get the picture) to make sure the smoke isn't the result of a leak.

I changed my oil whilst doing all this work and again a couple hundred kms after to get rid of any contaminants in the oil. Probably overkill but rather that than another turbo.

As far as possible, use 6 sides (hex) sockets and not the 12 sides (double hex)ones, especially on the exhaust nuts and bolts. The 12 sides ones can strip the edges off nuts and bolts quite easily and much cussing and violent reaction will ensue, ask me how i know.

Use masking tape and/or photos to label pipes etc if you aren't 100% sure you'll get them in the right place when reinstalling.

Wear safety glasses whilst removing the downpipe 'cause you'll get grit in your eyes if you don't.

Happy mechanicing!

Please feel free to add comments for improvements to the tut. I've made it as comprehensive as i can so a newbie can benefit.
« Last Edit: September 20, 2016, 06:51:48 AM by Garrsie »
2006 Forester XT, Wiseco pistons, 18"Koya lightweight wheels, Bridgestone re002, Custom 20g turbo, STi IC, 76mm exhaust, Walbro 255, Custom turbo inlet, intake spacers, Gizmo Boost Controller, TGV deletes. BC RA Coilies, Brembo big Calipers, PB RS Discs, Coolboost WMI, Intent Performance Tuned