Sway bars and disconnects

[Veneficus]

Anyone know where we can get something like this here in SA for 2007 model XT
http://offroadsubarus.com/showthread.php?t=1556&highlight=swaybar

[Stev0]

If you consider quick releases for the swaybar, I think you should do some suspension mods 1st. There is certainly more articulation with the lift blocks in. Obviously more will be gained be removing the bar, but I feel its not needed at the moment.

I think 3 percent of Forester owners really take their car to the max. I wouldnt be surprised if they are all on this forum.

[LoopSoosStroop]

Anyone know where we can get something like this here in SA for 2007 model XT
http://offroadsubarus.com/showthread.php?t=1556&highlight=swaybar

Removing the sway bars will improve your articilation, but you will run out of ground clearance much quicker.

Like Steve says, lift kit first, then disconnect the sway bars.

[Veneficus]

Ok well will go for sump guard first
Would have done it Dec but a few things came up that required the money

I need to get to you sometime loop

[LoopSoosStroop]

Ok well will go for sump guard first
Would have done it Dec but a few things came up that required the money

I need to get to you sometime loop

No problem!

[berndp]

Has anyone found alternatives to the OEM Sway bar links locally?
I don't mean better,...., just less costly?

[LoopSoosStroop]

Has anyone found alternatives to the OEM Sway bar links locally?
I don't mean better,...., just less costly?

How much are they, the OEM ones?

Have you tried City Deep?

[berndp]

OEM's about R600 - 700 / pair.

Have not tried City Deep, i'm in Cape Deep 

I want new, as mine are worn.

[LoopSoosStroop]

OEM's about R600 - 700 / pair.

Have not tried City Deep, i'm in Cape Deep 

I want new, as mine are worn.

Aha, I see.

How much on E-bay?

[berndp]

ebay about GBP20/pair + GBP15 shipping 

[Fozxt-zn]

try pyro for the whiteline ones

[berndp]

So I got new links from Midas, Goodwood. (R 606 for the 2 pairs)

Got new bushes from SSA (R220 for the 2 pairs)

Fitting:
Rear: dead simple, although you might need a very flat(ground down) 14 m/m spanner, to hold the (old) balljoint from turning while you undo the nut.

Front: less simple. You don't need to remove the subframe, contrary to what the book says.
The bush cages are fixed with a bolt(rear) and a nut+stud(front) each side.
There is little space. You need a 12m/m spanner.
I do think one of those swivel ratchet spanners might be very handy, but I didn't have one.
Don't bother trying with a socket.... there is no space to align it to fit over the bolt/nut heads. (Maybe a 1/4 drive might fit, but I didn't bother).
Remove the bolt from the rear of the bush-cage. Remove the nut from the front. Fit a normal M8 nut onto the stud at the front, to protect the thread. Then moer the press-bolt out, by means of a decent pin-punch/steel rod and a hammer. It comes out quite easy. Then you can remove the cage and rubber mount.


Refit. Insert the press-bolt by hand. You can feel where it starts to locate in the old "grooves". Then just tighten it, it will locate itself correctly. fit the bolt at the rear.

The links themself are easy, but you will need an Allenkey (i think it is a 5m/m) to hold the stud, while tightening(loosening for removal) the nut.

Make sure the car sits flat on the ground(left-right), to avoid tension on the Sway bar. Otherwise you will struggle with the links.

The complete job should not take more than 1 - 2 hours.

Good luck