Author Topic: west's S-exy young thing  (Read 5467 times)

January 23, 2016, 10:15:41 PM
Reply #60

Stev0

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So what are your km's standing on now?

January 25, 2016, 07:00:11 AM
Reply #61

SniperHilton

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so this arrived in the post today...place of honour next to Chett-copy-paste  :P
 8)


Very Nice! Good Job West!


2013 Forester S-Edition | Chett Tuned - 1.2BAR | TNT DumpPipe | Zorst

January 25, 2016, 04:03:11 PM
Reply #62

westcoaster

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So what are your km's standing on now?

@Steve, I'm on 102k km now. Been using her less, more bike time to work n' back  8)
Current: S-edition 2011 Steel Silver (S-exy young thing) - Forged, Chett tjooned, 76mm s/s wrapped DP, King Springs, 225/60/17 G012s, Sump & AT guards, cheap mud flaps, HID fogs, LED parks.
Ex:        2.5X man 2010 Pearl White (Dirty Girl) - LSS lift, 235/60/16 G012s, Sump guard, HIDs and more..

January 25, 2016, 05:05:39 PM
Reply #63

Stev0

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haha. Here I thought You would be approaching the 140k km mark.

February 03, 2016, 09:08:19 PM
Reply #64

westcoaster

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So, a mini-update:
The mess I made at last years ScoobyFest has earned me "April 2015 Forester of the Month" on subaruforester.org.
So a few weeks ago, what looked like a card arrived in the post, from the States...  my FOTM sticker!!! 8) 8) 8)
So that got place of honour next to my "Chett-copy-paste-20kW" sticker

And then FozzieDriver organised another anti-establishment item that promptly also went onto the back window...
« Last Edit: February 03, 2016, 09:15:48 PM by westcoaster »
Current: S-edition 2011 Steel Silver (S-exy young thing) - Forged, Chett tjooned, 76mm s/s wrapped DP, King Springs, 225/60/17 G012s, Sump & AT guards, cheap mud flaps, HID fogs, LED parks.
Ex:        2.5X man 2010 Pearl White (Dirty Girl) - LSS lift, 235/60/16 G012s, Sump guard, HIDs and more..

February 06, 2016, 09:06:02 PM
Reply #65

FozzieDriver

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Hahaha. So funny. Well done lad!!


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Forester XT 2008 MT
VF48, STi IC, 76mm Bell mouth TNT Free flow, GFB EBC, Coolboost WMI, WHP built and Chett Tuned. Blue Wasabi V3.0

July 25, 2017, 09:39:51 PM
Reply #66

westcoaster

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Sooo...Due to too much work, I've been absent for a long time.
Well, I got rid of the work thing (only temporarily, unfortunately) and there are a few upgrades I still wanted to get to.

In Sep 2015, I'd had a lovely Mishi radiator installed - and a trans cooler to replace the OEM unit.  At the time, I had it mounted to the side of the engine bay, as I was worried about over-cooling.  Since then, I've had two occasions where the ATF got a bit too hot for my liking.  This was up a winding mountain pass, in warm weather, fully loaded with stuff and people and pulling a full trailer.
So the trans cooler now sits in front of the radiator.  Going to Lesotho for some snow on Thursday, so I got worried about over-cooling again.  Last year, I very, very narrowly missed a massive engine disaster when I did not see the extreme cold had frozen the coolant and pushed off the lower radiator pipe and all the coolant ran out over the 1st 100m of driving.  Luckily my mates drove just behind me and we stopped before the engine was at risk.  So I'm a bit paranoid now.

After a long delay, I finally picked up on the fixes. With the help of sav and Fozziedriver, I got hold of a simple but effective thermostat for the oil system and started installing it. 
Clever me reasoned that it should be right by the box, in order to get the best reaction time to the ATF temp changes.  This means in a little hollow between the box and the LH side heads, above the driveshaft. Add to that I don't have a car lift in my garage...i.e. you need little T-rex/Trump hands on rubber arms.   Oh, and I had to make a bracket for it - nothing major, but everything takes time and I seem to be the slowest spanner-slinger on the planet.  I found very scant guidance on the net - my main struggle was to find out which of the two pipes are in/out of the box, as the thermostat needs to be linked up correctly.  The best advice I found, was a diagram on Opposedforces.com (found via Google images), aided by checking the relative temps of the two pipes after working the box a bit from cold.   I'm still not 100% sure if I got it right, so I'd prefer not to say which I think is which.

Mainly because of the space issue, I had to undo and re-fit hoses and the bracket a couple of times, figuring out the order in which to fit things.  Routing the new hoses was also a thing, as the angles meant the hoses wanted to pinch and the one was touching the head - not a good idea!  So I had to try a couple of route options, each time needing to undo things that were done...

When I was done, tested it in the garage and of course one fitting leaked a tiny bit.  Had to use a shifting spanner and could manage only another 1/16th of a turn on the fitting.  Took it for a test drive and still leaking.  At least I know the oil did run through the cooler, so the box shouldn't overheat.  What I DON'T know, is whether the thermostat actually closes enough to (mostly) bypass the cooler, when cold.

I had to undo the bracket in order to get the spanner in there.  Invented a few choice new swearwords along the way.  Will test again tomorrow, as it is last day before we leave for Lesotho.   
I've enclosed some pics in case anyone wants to do something similar.
Pic 1 shows the "box side" ports of the thermostat, first cold, then after some time in boiling water.  You can see the position change inside;
Pic 2 shows my makeshift bracket;
Pic 3 shows installed set-up.
--------
Update: Seems it worked. Tested from cold, worked the box a bit to heat it and drove it in traffic for a short distance. Engine was on temp, box was probably just getting into temp range.  There was a noticeable difference in temps between the pipes on the box and the cooler.  Even on the thermostat I could feel a difference between "box side" and "cooler side".  So it seems the thermostat does what it is supposed to.  And best of all, after some...er, "sporty" driving using the paddles... no leaks! 8)
« Last Edit: July 26, 2017, 07:01:06 PM by westcoaster »
Current: S-edition 2011 Steel Silver (S-exy young thing) - Forged, Chett tjooned, 76mm s/s wrapped DP, King Springs, 225/60/17 G012s, Sump & AT guards, cheap mud flaps, HID fogs, LED parks.
Ex:        2.5X man 2010 Pearl White (Dirty Girl) - LSS lift, 235/60/16 G012s, Sump guard, HIDs and more..

July 26, 2017, 09:46:53 AM
Reply #67

dreamerza

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Major props for the DIY bravery, good stuff  ;)
SG9 XT 
3"Turbo Back from A.C.E Performance
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Willing to get muddy!