Author Topic: 3.0 H6 tensioner and idler pulley bearing replacement  (Read 1089 times)

November 22, 2012, 09:34:17 AM
Read 1089 times

OBone

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Well documented on subaruoutback.org that the bearings on these two pulleys are prone to failure. Signs could be anything from a grinding sound while the engine is running, to total silence.

Having suffered the same on one of my previous cars (bearing went just inside the border to Swaziland in Baberton area, no reception) I decided to add this two bearings to the service schedule of my car, to be replaced every 80-100k km. The part number of that bearing is 6203-2rsj The size indicated by first couple of digits, and the rsj probably for rubber seal or something. available from Midas R70 for the two bearings. Interestingly the bearing that failed on me, is exactly the same brand, spec and size as the one on the Outback so every car that runs this sort of bearing should consider replacing it from time to time.

First image I could not resist. Ain't that a sight for sore eyes :cool:

Second image shows the layout courtesy google images

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« Last Edit: November 22, 2012, 10:42:04 AM by OBone »
2005 Outback 3.0 R
That R probably stands for RACING, because it goes like the clappers

November 22, 2012, 10:13:23 AM
Reply #1

OBone

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Actual view with the engine cover removed. Red arrow indicates tensioner pulley, and blue indicates idler. The size spanner I used was a no 14, the ring side on the bolt that holds the tensioner. Have the spanner on your right hand side (vehicle left) of the pulley, close to horizontal level, and push down. Unhook the belt from the idler pulley.

Belt off, undo the two bolts, they undo counter clock wise, because the belt runs clockwise. On my old Defender it was a clockwise bolt to undo.

The idler bolt is tapped into the timing cover and comes out easily. Second image of the idler pulley removed.

the tensioner pulley also undo counter clockwise, but ht has a bolt on the back. The blot is recessed into a hexagonal hole on the motor side of the tensioner bracket. Keeping it in place with your thinnest finger is a good idea. Also leave it right there. I was lucky mine did not fall out, I think it would be a difficult one to fish out of the engine bay, and place back in the tensioner bracket

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« Last Edit: November 22, 2012, 10:42:46 AM by OBone »
2005 Outback 3.0 R
That R probably stands for RACING, because it goes like the clappers

November 22, 2012, 10:36:04 AM
Reply #2

OBone

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Pushed the bearing out using an old socket on its inner rim, on a bench press. As the bearing becomes flush with the pulley front, I gave it a couple of whacks on the socket ant it popped out. The replacement bearing was in the fridge for a while, just to make the fitment a little easier. Nu 26 socket fits on the outerpart of the bearing without fouling on the pulley, I clamped it back in. Careful to keep it going parallel. The second bearing did not want to go in evenly, so I gently persuaded it with a hammer on the socket tapping it 12-6-3-9 until seated.

[attachment deleted by admin]
2005 Outback 3.0 R
That R probably stands for RACING, because it goes like the clappers

November 22, 2012, 10:40:34 AM
Reply #3

OBone

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Refit the pulleys refit the belt. I found it easiest to loop it like this:

1 crank
2 Aircon
3 alternator
4 idler
5 tensioner leaving the loop of the PAS pump for last

Then retract the tensioner with 14 spanner again, loop the  PAS pump, double check everything is in the grooves and job done.

Anything from 45-90 minutes depending on tools and skills.
2005 Outback 3.0 R
That R probably stands for RACING, because it goes like the clappers