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Topics - sav

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1
Turbo Tech Chat / GFB Boost controllers
« on: May 13, 2016, 09:53:56 AM »


http://www.gfb.com.au/products/boost-controllers/electronic-boost-controllers/g-force-ii-electronic-boost-controller-by-gfb

http://www.vagcafe.com/product/gfb-g-force-ii-electronic-boost-controller/
After having a chat with the owner of VAG Cafe and getting the relevant parties in contact, they have agreed to a 10% discount on all GFB and Motul products for SOCSA members.

That means you can pick this controller up for R4100 which is an absolute steal!!

2
Turbo Tech Chat / Dual oil catch can setup
« on: April 25, 2016, 09:27:01 AM »
After reading a ton of threads, tutorials, etc I came to the conclusion that pretty much all of them are over complicating things or not being 100% effective.
Some are deleting the PCV, others are sending oil from the OCC back into the engine, etc etc. I've also seen some setups T'ing everything together - that seems like a bad idea. Oh, and of course venting to atmosphere, I'm not sure how that's supposed to work since it' not a closed system sucking air anymore?

For me the simplest solution us usually the best. An oil catch can/air-oil separator is basically just a filter, so what you obviously want to do is filter oil vapor from the crank and the heads and keep the system as stock as possible.


First step for me is to take care of the crank breather.

The stock system is relatively system - one line on the turbo inlet is sucking from the head breather pipe(the metal lines attached to the TMIC).
The second one is sucking from the crank case breather, but that's where it's not as simple as it sounds - it's got a Y piece with another hose going to the PCV on the intake manifold, under the throttle body.

So if you plumb our OCC between the inlet hose you'll still be getting oil vapor through the PCV. Not ideal.

So here's how I've set mine up:

Simple. The inlet and PCV are both sucking up and filtering oil vapor at various stages of boost/vacuum.

2nd OCC will go on the header breathers, that's a very simple one to do so not much explanation needed.

I got a ball bearing tap from Hydra Part with fittings and a rubber tube connected to the underside of the OCC which will be routed to the bottom of the engine so I can easily drain oil from the can.

3
Turbo Tech Chat / Water/meth injection
« on: April 21, 2016, 07:29:15 AM »
I'm pretty happy with the power my car is making as well as the power delivery, so the next logical step is to optimize. Bell mouth downpipe, 3 port boost controller and WMI. The Intake Air Temp sensor which is currently pre-intercooler will also be relocated/replaced with a sensor in the manifold to take full advantage of the cooler air.

Quite a few of us are doing a bulk order on the www.coolboost.co.za Advanced and Pro kits. It comes with a 300PSI pump and because the controller is locally made it can be programmed to suit any specific requirements such as injection pause on ear changes, etc.

If anybody is interested in joining the group buy, let me know. We'll be placing the order beginning of May.

4
General Chat / Solving the useless headlights issue
« on: September 10, 2015, 10:30:13 PM »
I know I'm not the only one who finds the SG9's headlights utterly useless, so I'm going to do something about it.
I've upgraded the ballasts to Morimoto XB35 and Morimoto 4300k bulbs - made a difference but not huge.

Next step is to retrofit Bi-Xenon projectors on the low beams so I've ordered a set and will be installing them when they eventually arrive.

The end result should look something like this:




Will keep you posted...


5
Spotted / Grey SG9 XT @ Centurion/Burger Bistro
« on: September 10, 2015, 10:19:49 PM »
Urban Grey XT with black WRX wheels and a nice rumble. Anyone here?

6
BRZ / Volks
« on: May 31, 2015, 03:50:07 PM »
Not a BRZ but close enough.

Fitted a set of Volk TE37's in satin black. They're just over 2kg lighter than stock, per corner.




And no Steven, these are not Belville style Rotas, they're the real deal. :D

7
Wheels, Tires and Brakes. / SG Poly bushes - parked.
« on: May 06, 2015, 10:35:08 AM »
My car has recently developed a suspension knock when going over bumps and it seems to be the front lower wishbone/control arm rear bushes.
Subaru wants crazy money for them so I've asked a friend to help with custom poly bushes, similar to Whiteline/Powerflex but with a choice of hard or soft poly.



Caster correction ones should also be possible:


Prices for the normal ones will be around R450 for 60 shore(soft/orange) and R600 for 90 shore(hard/dark blue).
This should fit all SG foresters and 2000-2008 Impreza, I'd need to confirm later models.

Will also be working on gearbox mount inserts and maybe some other bits & pieces later.

8
Tutorials / SG9 Daytime Running Lights
« on: February 01, 2015, 06:32:40 PM »
With my car being pretty much finished I'm busy looking at doing some various small improvements, so next on the list is DRL.

Those eyebrow park lights always seemed like a waste of space to me and could be better utilised as DRL.

Here is what I've ordered:

Details about  Auto CAR LED DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHT RELAY HARNESS DRL CONTROL DIMMER ON/OFF 12V
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141515472822

The easy route would be to use a relay to switch the DRL off when you switch the headlights on but I want them to work like my 86's - bright when you switch the car on and dim when you switch the headlights one. This little box does exactly that:

The white wire is to connect to the headlights (or dashboard lights), when headlights or dashboard lights are turned on, the brightness of the LED daytime running lights will be halved

When starts the car engine, the DRL will turn on automatically
and When turns off the engine, the DRL off delay 12 seconds to let you reach your home.


Next up the actual LED lights. I was planning on using some commonly found LED strips but then I came across these and ordered both:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281535479545?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


http://www.ebay.com/itm/291198782417?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&var=590469761462&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 Description:
Voltage: DC 12V
Power: 6W*2
Lumen: 600LM
Degree: 80°
LED Style: High Power Epistar chips LED COB, 84 /108 chips
Light color: White / Red / Blue / Ice blue
Silver frame
Shell material: Aluminum

600 lumens should be plenty bright . I'll test both to see which looks and works best. I'm hoping the 2nd one as the yellow COB led might not look as "OEM" inside the park light casing.

So now I'm just waiting for all the parts to arrive, with our postal service it could take 3 months...

9
General Chat / SG9 headlight lens replacement
« on: January 26, 2015, 11:29:05 AM »
I know they can usually be restored but if they got cracked, here are the part numbers for the replacement lenses:
1. Glass headlights left 84990SA411
2. Glass headlights right 84990SA401

Should be around R2500 for the set. A new XT headlight is around R8k. EACH.

10
General Chat / Greenstone Autobody
« on: January 15, 2015, 03:11:21 PM »
Hail damage removed, machine polished, buffed and what not in 2 days flat - HIGHLY recommended!!

11
Tutorials / Auto trans fluid change
« on: December 22, 2014, 06:43:15 PM »
According to the manual the transmission takes just over 9 liters of fluid but according to google and the forums you can only get about 4.0 liters out at a time so you have to do this about 3 times to get fresh fluid in there.

I got a new ATF filter from Subaru @ R450, new crush washer @ R8 then the oil which was a bit trickier.
Subaru sells their ATF in a genetic 4 liter tin can at a ridiculous price so the plan has always been to switch over to Liqui Moly.
Julian/Pyro suggested LM Top Tec 1200 which according to the datasheet is mixable and also meets the Dexron III and Subaru ATF spec.

Got it for just over R600/5l from Naskar Spares in Menlyn.


-I let the car stand for about 30mins after a proper drive to get everything up to temp, then jacked the driver's side front up as far as I could.
-I unscrewed the 17mm drain plug and was quickly greeted with what seemed like a ton of watery fluid trying to escape as quickly as possible - newspaper under your drain pan doesn't work, it goes straight through so best to use refuse bags. Make sure you start with a completely empty drain pain - Addis Sumpy is recommended.
-Next step was to remove the old filter - it was very tight so make sure you've got a filter tool handy.

I then let it sit like that for about an hour or so to get as much fluid out as possible then lubed the new filter with some ATF and fitted that together with the drain plug(30nm) and crush washer, flat side facing you.

Next step was to measure the amount of fluid that came out - this was done by emptying the Sumpy into 2l coke bottles. To my surprise 5800ml came out!

The tricky part is getting oil back into the gearbox, through the dip stick tube and also the exact same amount that came out!
This was done by "fabricating" a device using a funnel and 10mm tube from Builder's - the tube was inserted into the funnel and sealed/held together with ductape.

From there on you just need to be patient - I slowly got the whole 5 liters in and then I would obviously have had a slight problem since I was 800ml short. Luckily I've bought 2 liters ATF from Subaru not too long ago when I fitted the Mishimoto trans cooler so I've measure some from that and filled. Funny enough, it looks and smells EXACTLY like the Liqui Moly oil.

The last step for now is to clean the dip stick, fiddle to re-insert it then let it stand over night and check the level in the morning then take it for a test drive. As it stands now it's got about 65% new fluid in the box which is better than expected.

Depending on the condition of the old oil you'd want to repeat this process again in 100km or so but it would obviously take many changes before you've got 100% new oil in the box. It's not a cheap exercise but luckily not one you'd have to repeat very often - 100k would probably be safe in our traffic/heat conditions.



12
Spotted / S-Edition, light blue, Cape Town plates
« on: December 18, 2014, 12:18:58 PM »
On the N1S by Marlboro:

13
Spotted / Silver SG with STi scoop
« on: December 12, 2014, 01:53:22 PM »
With 2 spot lights in the middle of the bumper and mesh grille spotted in Centurion. Looks mean!

14
General Chat / LSS - your old car?
« on: December 04, 2014, 09:45:54 AM »


15
Turbo Tech Chat / Free blow off valve
« on: November 17, 2014, 11:11:15 AM »
Well kind off.

The airbox resonator has been bugging me for a while now, some say leave it in because it makes no difference while others say it does and then there are all sorts of opinions in between.
Removed the thing over the weekend - biggest resonator I've seen in my life! Had to make a rubber/foam seal between the airbox and fender which was easy enough and also for the input hole next to it.

Initial impressions - not a huge difference, could hear the turbo spool up a bit clearer and then I started noticing the dumps. :D Sounds like a proper vent to atmosphere now, just not as loud but very noticeable. Happiness and it didn't cost a sent.

That being said, I do have a 50/50 hybrid valve on the way, if I knew this I probably wouldn't have bought it.

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