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Topics - berndp

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Wheels, Tires and Brakes. / Mud
« on: January 07, 2019, 03:19:51 PM »
Always when I drive gravel or muddy roads, there is an accumulation of same in the rear wheels. It's much worse with mud, to the extend that the wheel become unbalanced. I've had it so bad on occasion, that I could drive above km/h on a tar road.

Is there a solution to prevent the accumulation of mud in the wheels?

I know the SJ has little deflector in front of the rear wheels (not sure about the SH/SK models), which I assume are there the prevent this accumulation?

Parts and Accessories For Sale / SG9 Radiator fans for slae
« on: April 08, 2018, 07:25:44 PM »
I have a set of Radiator fans for the SG9 NA (MT) for sale. 2 fans in shroud. 100% working.
PM me, or whatsapp on zero eight 3 three two five 15 seven zero

Wanted - Parts or Vehicles / Shopping list
« on: August 24, 2017, 08:47:08 PM »
I'm looking for the following for my SG9 N/A

AC Condenser (clean, good condition)
Radiator fans (Good working condition)

the condenser should be the same for all SG models
The radiator fans for pre- and facelift should be the same, the turbo models have stronger fans. At this stage either will do.

Anyone have these spares lying around?

General Chat / Sparkplugs
« on: August 05, 2017, 10:29:24 PM »
I'm posting this here, 'cause it applies to both NA and XT versions.

I need help, please.
How do you remove the sparkplug washer from the head cavitiy when it does not come out with the plug?
I have 2  (No's 2 & 4) that are "stuck" inside. It had to be the 2 most difficult(least space). >:(

Transmission / SG9 Manual Gearbox
« on: July 18, 2017, 01:21:40 PM »
My box wants some attention.
Anybody have a good "spare" floating around, or some advice on where to have it overhauled (Cape Town)
I'm struggling with the gears, and it has a lot of play in the box.
I may want to get it sorted before my planned Nam trip next year


The Farm Road / Car wash
« on: May 07, 2017, 04:55:04 PM »
So, after months of not having the car washed due to water restrictions, I decided lasdt week the Foz should be cleaned.

Took it to a reputable carwash in a parking lot, asked for "mini valet" and engine bay clean.

The car was clean again, although they skimped a bit on internal cleaning (had to take it back for some rework).

When I checked the engine bay, they have washed it (good), but then sprayed the whole thing with that stupid silicone oil.
Sure, for the first hour it's nice and shiny (after the initial smoke cloud), but then dust starts to accumulate.

Now I'll have to get that all washed off again. >:( >:(

Well, school fees were R110. Never again will I allow that silicone crap to be sprayed on/in my car.

(I did make them wash the stuff off the tyres when I picked up the car, as that just splashes onto the car after the first 5 km.)

Suspension / Ball joints
« on: April 21, 2017, 08:50:40 AM »
 Just some info

had to replace my ball joints on the front lower control arms.
SSA: about R500 each  :o
Midas Parow (Gerhard was a nice guy to talk to)R120 each (Made in Turkey) Will see how they last

The Partquip number (BJ 1075) as per the books/computers is not correct for the SG9.
Besides, that Partquip part has a grease nipple on the top cover. The is no place/space for a grease nipple on the Foz.

Tutorials / Rear-diff and Gearbox oil change
« on: April 12, 2017, 10:41:16 PM »
For those attempting to do this DIY.
i did this a week ago, so I thought I would share.

It's an easy job, but you need some tricks and tools. The normal screwdriver and pliers and hammer are not sufficient.
A jack is meant to lift a car, not support it while you are underneath the car.

The description that follows is for the SG9 NA/ Pre facelift MT. I know the Facelift has a different exhaust routing. The turbos would also have a different routing, so the tin foil for the gearbox drain might not be required..............

Rear Diff:
This should be the same for all SG models. some might have a sensor connected to the bootom diff plug, which will need to be disconnected. I have no experience in this regard.
Jack, car stand, 1/2 drive power bar, extension pipe for power bar, if you have a short one (power bar  ;D ;D), some blocks of wood, or bricks, or sparewheel (don't use your head for the latter 3 items). And oil drain can/bucket.

Jack up the car at the rear, one side is ok, or under diff. Support with stand (bokkie/ ....), for safety sake.
Clean the areas around the plugs.

The power bar's 1/2" drive fits into the plugs on the diff.

Insert this into the top plug, support it with the wood/ bricks/sparewheel as shown in pic(shown for bottom plug).

Don't bother trying to undo the plugs by hand.
Lower the car, and let the weight of the car do the hard work of undoing the plug. You may hear something break, but that's just the plug coming loose.(hopefully nothing actually breaks)
I have used a Gedore power bar. Not sure if the "Fung-Yong-Hai" models will work. You know, those shiny "Chrome Vanadium" ones. They might be too weak.

Anyway, jack the car up again, repeat for the bottom plug.

Now you can procede with removing the plugs(top first), draining, and refilling the oil.
When re-fitting the plugs, add some "Loctite" thread sealer. Don't use PTFE tape, the oil will sweat through.
Obviously, insert the bottom plug first, fill via the top hole.

The reason for loosening the top plug first, is to ensure that you can actually refill the diff, once drained. No good you drain the oil, and then can't refill.
For those not having a manual, you refill untill the oil flows out of the filler(top) hole.

Gearbox (MT)

You'll need some additional tools: Torx T70 bit(borrow one somewhere, they do cost a few rand to buy), some tinfoil, a small funnel, 16mm tubing(Aquarium/Gardening, or even better, PVC or Perspex pipe), long enough to reach from the gearbox dipstick tube to above the airfilter/throttle body. (See pic)

Also make sure you have a new gasket for the drain plug. It's good practice to fit a new gasket. (The plug's thread OD = approx.25.5mm So, an Alu seal (like on sparkplugs), or a copper seal(washer), with ID 26 mm, should be OK. I actually got a new one from SSA (when I bought my new plug)).

The tin foil is needed to cover the exhaust pipe Y-piece (on the SG9 NA/ Pre facelift. Don't know about the others)
Form the tin foil so as to provide a path for the oil to run freely down into your oil drain pan. If you haven't got tin foil, you will probably suffer with the hot/burning oil smell for a week or so.

Jack up the car, and support on stand (again for safety).

Using the T70 bit, power bar and extension pipe, as well as all the anger over the neighbours screaming kids, and (if you have) the nagging missus, barking dog, pregnant GF, lossen the drain plug at the bottom of the gearbox, whilst pushing against a wheel with your foot/feet.....
Let the oil drain for an hour or so.

Refit the plug (+(new)gasket), tighten, and then a bit more.

Refill with 4lt of oil, thru the funnel contraption. Ensure hte level is fine.

After a week or so af driving, just make sure there are no leaks, check the gearbox oil level, and enjoy your car.

Before starting this job, make sure you have the oils. Duh. ::) ::)
You won't get them at Hypermarket/ Makro/ Checkers

Above all, work safe!!

No, you don't need to disconnect the battery, and loose all the radio presets..............

Transmission / Smooth operator
« on: April 03, 2017, 07:32:10 AM »
How do you get a smoother changing (MT)gearbox ?

Just did an oil change on the box this weekend, as it was time and the shifiting was really sticky.

Is it wise to add additives?
I had Ceratec in the box, but I can't really confirm that it did help.
Don't really want to waste money on additives that don't help.

Offcourse, the box has 350k km on it.

Bodywork / SG9 Mudflaps
« on: January 11, 2017, 09:44:20 AM »
Thought i'd share these pics of the mudflaps I made.
They survived the recent 4700km trip, with about 1500km gravel included (no hardcore off-road, just gravel (bad at times))

Hardly any mark on the flaps.
Much less marks on the plastic trim just before the rear wheels.
They work.

Photography / Off road aiming
« on: January 08, 2017, 07:38:31 AM »
For those with SG Foz's, this can be helpfull when going off-tar.
I'm about 1.75 height, and I don't lie in the seat, as I don't race from robot2robot. :D :D
photo hosting sites

General Chat / engine Coolant leak
« on: August 10, 2016, 09:50:22 AM »
I notice yesterday some fluid under my car, which turned out to be anti-freeze.
Found antifreeze in the various cavities on top of the engine, on the left hand side, +/- under the intake manifold, where you can't really see.

Anyone had this problem? Is there a specific (known) problem area?

I'll clean the engine top off and run the engine to see if I can locate the leak while the engine is running, but I'm hoping for a shortcut here, that may save me a lot of time.


Events & News / 2016 Blanket run
« on: May 29, 2016, 07:11:51 PM »
Sorry to have had to miss out on this one.
Maybe somebody who was there can post some comments here?
I believe it was quite an achievement?

Trip Reports / Baviaans
« on: May 25, 2016, 09:18:56 PM »
So, we did Baviaans, West to East.
Here are some random pics.
I'll try a video as well.

It's a must, for anyone who is not scared of gravel (most Fozzie drivers ?)

It was beautifull in there.
As a Fozzie driver, I would avoid the wet season though, because some of those water crossings aparently get quite deep, sometimes even the Cruisers/Landies have to turn around  :D

It's about a 200km stretch of road, but take 2 or more days, to enjoy it. Leave at least 1 whole day for the eastern (rougher) part. Stop frequently to look/capture/take pics/enjoy/....

No matter what the maps say, there is NO fuel in the Baviaans.

1 tank easilly takes you thu, though. We filled up in Uniondale, drove thru to the western entrance gate of the Nature reserve (rougher part), came back about 90% (to Makkedaat), with turning off here and there, then went all the way thru to Patensie the next day, with a bit of fuel to spare.
We had no car/tire problems, but if you can, rather be prepared, with tire repair kit at least,(I've got a 2nd spare as well), and if possible, extra fuel.
Shlepping a (off-road)trailer is possible. (Encountered some Tuna's with trailers/caravans).
The road in the  Nature Reserve is NARROW, so be prepared/able to reverse, to make space. There are no options. I know a lot of female(maybe some male as well) drivers are not comfortable reversing on a narrow (gravel) mountian pass. No disrespect intended here, it's a fact.
No, you can't turn around, except in a very few spots.

Photography / Just because I can
« on: May 16, 2016, 01:43:06 PM »

 ;D ;D

Somewhere in Baviaanskloof.
What a beautiful place !

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