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Messages - berndp

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1
General Chat / Re: Good Subaru Forester Mechanic in Jhb
« on: March 05, 2019, 08:49:52 AM »
Saw your other post.

Apparently, if it's an XT, you need to "burp" it.

2
General Chat / Re: Good Subaru Forester Mechanic in Jhb
« on: March 05, 2019, 08:46:13 AM »
Very easy fix:
Replace head gaskets.....

Easy = notcheap

3
Electronics / Re: Chinese Android Head Units
« on: February 20, 2019, 08:17:27 PM »
#Smarty-Trend have none for the SG model.  :(

Buying these things via import/ebay/deal-extreme/... is always a gamble. Who do you go to for info/complaints/returns?
(Be prepared to potentially loose your investment)

What I've seen in another country, is that the FM receiver of some of these head units cannot tune in to the local FM stations' range. So, just check that they can actually tune into our range....

4
XV / Re: Tyre choices for Baviaanskloof
« on: February 18, 2019, 04:35:55 PM »
I also have G015 215/65/16, no complaints.

If you have time, and if it's possible, raise the car a bit. It helps.
Also try to invest in a sumpguard, there are some nasty bits of road in Baviaans.

Take a whole day for Baviaans's eastern side, and western, for that matter, there's lots to see.
On the eastern side, watch out for the Fortuners and Cruisers with Caravans coming thru in the passes, it's narrow in places.

If there was a lot of rain, they'll probably not let you drive West-East. Have a plan "B".
There is 1 water crossing wich can be a problem......
Fill up before you enter Baviaans, there is no petrol inside. (Take spare fuel if you can, especially if you are driving around a bit).

If you are looking for a place to stay on the Western side of Baviaans, I can recommend Verberg Herberg.
Inside Baviaans, there are quire a few places, but Makkedaat (Caves) is something special.

Zuurberg is a nice pass. (any Avis car can do it. ;) ;)) It is a bit rough(washed out) in places.

Avoid Ann's Villa if you want to sleep over. (northern end of Zuurberg). It's a dump.
There is a "museum" of some sort, try your luck, we didn't have time.


5
Parts and Accessories For Sale / Re: 2005 XT shocks and springs for sale
« on: February 17, 2019, 08:07:04 AM »
Hi Arnaud

If no success, I have an OEM set that will fit your car.
The fronts are tired and the rears (SLS) are sagging. They can however be refurbished.
I also Have the original SLS springs as well as a set of springs you need if you're going to do the conversion to non-sls "x" rear suspension.

And who would refurbish these? Has it been done?

From what I've heard they cannot be refurbished??

Anyway, I've you are planning to do a lot of gravel, SLS are no good.

6
Wanted - Parts or Vehicles / Re: Wanted: heavy duty coil springs
« on: February 06, 2019, 10:53:16 PM »
Bought them at Masterparts.

Part no: 04N208
Make DLZ
I believe from a Mazda 626 ?

Maybe try to get a brand like Febi.. should be better quality.
Don't go for APlus, it's not worth it, especially when going on gravel....

They were R220 for 2 in May last year.
They survived our +6K km Nam trip last year, of which more than 4K km was not tar.

7
Wheels, Tires and Brakes. / Re: Forester tyre size
« on: February 06, 2019, 03:59:24 PM »
I could not fit a new 215/65/16 into spare wheel well without deflating.
Half worn, it fits.
That's for an SG Foz.

For that amount of gravel, you're prob better off with a Yoko Geolander AT or similar tyre.
There is some discussion elsewhere on this forum about tyre types....(i think)

8
Wanted - Parts or Vehicles / Re: Wanted: heavy duty coil springs
« on: February 06, 2019, 10:52:14 AM »
They are from a Mazda 626 afaik.

Will find that part number again

9
Introduction / Re: New member - First Subaru
« on: February 06, 2019, 08:55:46 AM »
Sorry Hobo, we do not believe you.

A pic or 2 will change all that  ;)

10
Transmission / Re: Viscous Coupling Repair
« on: February 06, 2019, 08:54:39 AM »
Not sure what "you guys" do with your cars, but mine is 5k km short of 400k km, and no gearbox/diff failures (yet).
The box may be a bit whiney, but I do like (red) wine, so that's ok. ;)

I don't race, "don't" rock crawl, do like gravel roads and those small forgotten roads/passes that sometimes go nowhere....

I do not like tar roads.

(just got an idea for a protest : #tar roads must fall  ;D)

11
Wanted - Parts or Vehicles / Re: Wanted: heavy duty coil springs
« on: February 06, 2019, 08:42:12 AM »
@44 mm rear lift you can safe fuel, as the car is mostly running downhill  ;D ;D ;D

Longer links: these bring the swaybar section where the links are connected back towards it's original position

From this / to this --

So the swaybar works better, as it works around the horizontal level, where the arc of movement  is more vertical "(" than horizontal, as it would be with the shorter link......

12
Wanted - Parts or Vehicles / Re: Wanted: heavy duty coil springs
« on: February 05, 2019, 05:32:57 PM »
When you do the bushings for the (anti)sway bar, get new (&longer) links as well.
There are longer ones from a Mazda, will have to get you the part number.
They bring the anti sway bar +/-back to its normal postion/angle

13
 :o
Happy hunting....
 :)

14
Electronics / Re: LED lamps advice
« on: January 29, 2019, 08:20:23 PM »
LED's, for a given Lumen strength, draw less current (amps) than incandescent (Filament, including Halogen...) lights.
However, what probably happens, is that you install a similar LED "wattage" bulb, compared to the old one. Which should really give you more Lumens.

But, I think what may be the case, based on the below comments, is that the LED actually draws more current, but this is pulsed at high frequency. Reason being, the "death factor" of an LED is the current drawn, (actually the heat caused by this high current..). The LED can draw quite high currents and elevated voltages, and will survive, if this happens for very short periods (like a flash). So, what they do is take i.e. a 5W LED, but over supply it with Volts, for very short periods(pulses), and effectively get say a 10W equivalent light output( what the eye can see). The wiring for this will be dubjected to "over-current" at each pulse. Which is fine if this happens every few seconds. But actually it happens many times a second (prob. thousands..). So, the copper in the wire heats up for that very short period, but is not given the time to cool down again, before the next pulse comes, so the heat of the next pulse is added to that of the previous pulse......

Next time when you are sitting and the red robot, waiting for green, aim you cellphone camera at the robot, and see the flickering. Those are the pulses..... sometimes visible in the newer movies on TV.
The human eye is too slow to see this by itself, but most cell phone cameras work on 30, maybe 60 frames (photos) per second, that's when you see the On/Off's of the LED's.

This i think mostly applies to high output power type LED's.

This is how I understand it. If there is soemone with more knowledge on the subject, please confirm/elaborate/..., also for my benefit. I have no electronic training, just Google and a bit a common sense and blown components/burnt fingers/.. and friends like me.
 :D :D

15
Wanted - Parts or Vehicles / Re: Wanted: heavy duty coil springs
« on: January 28, 2019, 05:04:02 PM »
Hi Mathieu,
Are you doing this DIY, or is somebody installing the springs for?

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